I participated in a USO tour from Camp Kim in Seoul for approximately 92,000 Won ($96 USD). The journey explored multiple DMZ sites while traveling through heavily fortified areas marked by extensive barbed wire fencing and military checkpoints.

Journey to Camp Bonifas

As the group traveled northward along the Han River, military installations became increasingly visible. I note that "barbed wire fencing and guard posts began to crop up" with multiple layers of protection. Camp Bonifas, located 400 meters south of the DMZ, required additional security screening before entry. Visitors were required to sign liability waivers and attend briefings covering Korean War history and specific border incidents.

Conference Rooms at Panmunjom

The tour's first major stop featured the blue conference rooms straddling the Military Demarcation Line. These structures technically allow visitors to stand in both countries simultaneously. I describe encountering South Korean guards who were "top of the crop" military personnel trained in Taekwondo. Photography restrictions were strictly enforced in this sensitive area.

Bridge of No Return

This historic crossing point where POWs made one-way choices between nations remains symbolically significant. I observed North Korea's propaganda village with "painted on windows, and single lightbulb buildings," along with loudspeaker systems broadcasting propaganda up to 18 hours daily.

Dorasan Station

Built in anticipation of potential Korean reunification, this modern train station represents South Korea's hopeful vision for continental rail connectivity. The facility showcases "Next stop ... oppressive dictatorship" signage, reflecting the stark contrast between nations.

The Third Tunnel

The tour descended 240 feet underground through a tunnel originally excavated by North Korea through solid granite. The journey involved a 500-foot passage through 2-by-2-meter tunnels that North Korea had claimed were coal mines.

Reflection on Division

I contemplate whether permanent division will persist, drawing parallels to Berlin's wall. I note that my father couldn't visit Berlin during Cold War tensions, yet I later experienced a unified city. I wonder if future generations might similarly witness Korean reunification.