I discovered Yasukuni Shrine, Japan's war memorial honoring those who died serving the Empire of Japan. The shrine lists nearly 2.5 million names, though it remains controversial for including over 1,000 war criminals.

Upon arrival, I noticed substantial police presence—more than typical security. The shrine grounds were crowded with visitors, marching bands, and long lines of people paying respects. Unsure what prompted such activity, I explored further.

Inside the adjacent war museum, I encountered displays of Japanese aircraft, artillery, uniforms, and personal items from soldiers and pilots. Reflecting on this experience as a Canadian whose ancestors fought against Japan, I gained perspective on how WWII holds vastly different meaning across generations and nationalities.

As the afternoon progressed, I observed people wearing Japanese military uniforms and noticed increasingly unwelcoming glances. Elderly veterans in full soldier attire, carrying swords and surrounded by admirers taking photographs, walked past.

The realization struck suddenly—this was August 15th, commemorating the 70th anniversary of Japan's surrender ending Pacific Theater combat. This explained the heavy security and demonstrations I witnessed throughout the grounds.

Understanding the significance of the date, I felt increasingly uncomfortable as an outsider in this space dedicated to national remembrance. The surrounding protests and demonstrations prompted a decision to leave the shrine area, ultimately walking for twenty minutes before riot police presence diminished.

Rating: 4 out of 5 (for history buffs; avoid visiting on August 15th)