I journeyed to Mount Sangbangsan on Jeju Island's southwest coast seeking a temple rumored to be beautiful but poorly documented. After traveling by bus from Seogwipo and arriving at a notably windy coastal area, I discovered statues, pagodas, and a golden Buddha accessible by steps.

Finding the main temple area underwhelming, I explored unmarked paths and discovered a staircase leading up the volcanic mountainside. The route featured steel netting to protect hikers from falling rocks—a precaution that proved necessary when debris fell into my eyes during the climb.

Ascending further, I encountered a Buddhist statue in a recessed cave with a small pool of deep blue water catching heavy drips from above. An elderly Korean woman monitored the sacred space while recordings of chanting and drumming played from speakers, creating an atmosphere I found peaceful despite its modern technological additions.

Upon descending, I spotted a European-style tall ship beached nearby. Investigation revealed a fascinating historical account: in the 17th century, a Dutch trading vessel was shipwrecked off the island. The survivors lived unwillingly in Korea for over a decade before escaping. The story written by the captain was the first printed account of Korea in the west. The replica now serves as a museum commemorating this encounter.

I also explored a rocky peninsula featuring dramatic water-carved formations before catching buses to continue my island exploration.